The Whitsundays were well worth the detour and couple of days less in Sydney.
Gorgeous weather had preceded me (again, unprecedented given the month before!) and it had all the hallmarks of a tropical paradise - without the price tag!
Stayed at Backpackers by the Bay which is small enough to feel homey but large enough to house some long termers as well as passers through. Clean, airy and brightly painted along a sea-life theme it was a great experiences and the pool, BBQ, hammock and bar areas really add to the perks! The tour guides and the taxi guy all commented on it being the best backpackers as well - it really was only 5mins to the main esplanade but far enough way that you didn't get the noise - or a lot of drunk students.
The shuttle from the train dropped me off right outside the door - and also filled us in on the supermarkets and internet places as we travelled.
The train down from Cairns (The Sunlander) was not up to The Ghan's standards but still comfy - and for the large part of the day - uncrowded. They did have a carriage one up from mine called 'Sapphire' that had less seat (ergo more space and newer) but not sure how you got those tickets. There was a club carriage with more of a semi-circle sofa seating thing going on and movies playing, as well as the buffet car further along.
First morning got picked up at a leisurely 7:30am for my Ecojet safari. It was a complete blast. There was only me and another couple (sharing a ski) so it was probably a little faster and hairier than usual :) The only slightly disappointing thing was that, due to the tide, we couldn't get up the river where the crocs were - or we couldn't get back. Fair point I feel. We did get to travel a good length of the coast, bouncing the waves, zipping over the flat bits and going to some rally gorgeous secluded spots. Had a run in with a local beach bum 'Crayfish Ken' who's been squatting on some Crown land for about 20years and feels he owns the beach but apart from that (quietly sad and amusing at the same time) moment it was a fabulous morning.
Pottered round in the afternoon and attended a free digeridoo lesson and then learned about Opals and spent an indulgent 1/2 an hour looking at the sparkly wonders. I ended buying a ring - not sure if I got a deal or not but the colours and depth of the blues are fantastic.
Next morning was off to Salty Sea Dog Kayaking before catching the flight to Sydney. Nearly couldn't do it because the time of the ferry to the island was earlier and the shuttle for that would have been at my hostel before I would have returned. Salty Dog however are on the same pier as the ferry so in the end it didn't matter.
A point I was so glad I'd checked because it was a relaxing and beautiful morning spent in a very quiet way exploring a couple of the closer island and 'White Rock'. When you look at the Whitsunday's on a map - or even on Google Earth, you cannot prepare yourself for the actual experience of being among the islands. They are tall and covered in lush green forest, some with coves and Bays. Due to this the whole area feels a lot 'closer' than you would imagine by looking at the map - you also feel surrounded - but in a nice way. The Kayak's were 2 person and I was paired up with a guy from America who'd left his hungover mated sleeping and come out for some exercise. Very handy he was :) We got to float in the cove for a bit and watch turtles surfacing for air, paddle over loads of coral and peer through the clear waters at the colours and life going on there.
To be honest, I'd been a bit spoiled for the snorkelling and life underwater by my GBR experience, but the whole morning spent between the islands and in the silence was wonderful. If I ever go back I'm definitely going to try one of the multi-day trips where you get to camp on the islands as you go.
Caught the Ferry over the Hamilton Isd, which doubled as great way to see most of the islands and get some great photos. Have you ever played Wii Sport Resort? Hamilton Island IS that island - complete with Golf Buggy carts to travel everywhere and a giant Golfball on a tee. Had a little chuckle to myself and took a couple of photos as proof before heading into the small airport and settling down for a 3 hour wait for the delayed plane to Sydney.
Monday 9 August 2010
Tuesday 3 August 2010
Scuba baby yeah!
Managed to get a lie in in Alice and then went into town for some needed souvenir shopping. Ended up with a didgeridoo that's wending it's way back to England as we speak. Yet another random instrument to add to my repertoire. All I've got to do is learn to rotary breathe and it'll be sweet.
I don't think that school is in any danger of a didgeridoo orchestra any time soon though.
Flew to Cairns with the Austrian couple who'd been on the tour and then found my way to Northern Greenhouse. This hostel definitely deserves it's status as one of the top 5 in Australia - it's fantastic. I was in a girl's only dorm. 3 bunk beds, en-suite bathroom, sink, balcony, Wardrobe and Fridge Freezer. In the communal area there's free Internet, a massive kitchen, tables, lounge area, pool and parking. It's a stone's throw from the esplanade but far enough away that it's fairly quiet. Loved it.
Also, as Pro-Dive correctly informed me, it's only a couple of blocks from the 24-Hour Medical centre and 2 doors down from their shop. As instructed I dumped my bags (by which I mean I literally went in removed them onto my bed, grabbed my wallet and left straight away) and headed to the medical centre. I was worried as I had only just about got rid of the worst of the cold and was serruptisiously blowing my nose whilst sitting in the waiting room - mostly by going to see what fascinating things the pharmacy had! Passed everything I needed to - discovered I need to lose at least 3/4stone to be at my target weight (project for when I get back?) and went straight to Pro-Dive wear they checked everything thoroughly and then kitted me out with my BCD, fins, mask & snorkel.
Went for a stroll along the esplanade and found a pizza for $9 (Dominic's) and ate it whilst devouring some surfing time at a local internet place. The guy in the booth next to me asked me where I got it and then left about 3mins later!
Next morning I was at the shop for 6:10 (after discovering that I had failed to alter my alarm to Adelaide time and having a small coronary on looking at my watch) and once everyone had arrived and been checked in we were driven out to Scuba Pro II.
I wish I could describe how awesome my time onboard was but it would take ages (and it's not like me to rattle on....*hm*) so I'll try to keep it brief.
My instructor was Chris, brilliant teacher and made me and the other newbie to the 5-day learning group feel welcome and included. The whole crew were so personable and approachable, you felt safe at all times and everything was done with great attention to detail. The boat was clean and very practical. I ended up with my own room on the top deck which was nice although barely anytime was spent in there. Max was our chef and the meals were healthy and filling - he manged to bake a cake everyday as well as everything else :)
We were really lucky with the weather and the sun shone and the sky was blue the whole way through the time on the reef. I completed my 4 training dives by the 2nd day and then was free to dive with my Buddy (Dutch guy named Luit) on the other dives. Important thing to remember when doing training dives in the sea - when you have to clear your mask of water, don't open your eyes, salt stings.
My ear was not a happy bunny on that first free dive and some water got in making me exceptionally dizzy so we surfaced and I had to be 'tired diver' towed to the boat. That night was out night dive. I wasn't going to try but in the end though I'd kick myself if it turned out to be fine - which it did! And besides, who doesn't want to jump into the dark (not that it was really that dark with all the lights on) when they've been feeding the grey reef sharks off the boat beforehand and they're still hanging around to see if their luck's in? Next morning ear went bad again so decided on snorkeling for the next 2 to give it a rest. I had started my Adventure Diver but as I'd not filled in the book it didn't matter, my night dive still counts though :)
The Great Barrier Reef is very like Uluru in a way - so much to see it's really hard to take it in. On our training dives we did skills with a swim around in between and then skills at the end - so taking in what I was looking at was tricky. I do remember the Moray Eel with it's scary looking head and looooong body. The Christmas tree coral that were blue and looked like festive trees - until you ran you hand past them and they shrunk back into the rock. Diving and snorkeling I saw, amongst other things: Nemo's, Dori's, Red Bass, Trumpet Fish, Lion Fish, Parrot Fish, Napoleon Wrasse, Fusilier Fish, Butterfly Fish, Sea Cucumbers, Giant (and I mean GIANT) Clams, Banner Fish, all sorts of colourful coral, Humbug Fish, Goat fish - and most excitingly, Flat Worm (doesn't sound exciting but hard to find and sooo pretty) Blue Spotted Rays, a White tipped Reef Shark, and....a TURTLE!!! The turtle was so special. I spotted it and could hear it munching away when I was snorkeling. Then it came up to the surface for air and we swam along next to it for a bit before it disappeared back down. So beautiful :)
I can't wait to come back some time and explore more. I will definitely be coming with Pro-Dive, they made the whole thing so relaxed and there was the right balance of rest and Diving.
After lunch on the last day we headed for shore and then got dropped off back at the store, pottered next door to the hostel to settle in and then headed out to meet everyone for a meal at 'Rattle & Hum'. Good Times:)
I don't think that school is in any danger of a didgeridoo orchestra any time soon though.
Flew to Cairns with the Austrian couple who'd been on the tour and then found my way to Northern Greenhouse. This hostel definitely deserves it's status as one of the top 5 in Australia - it's fantastic. I was in a girl's only dorm. 3 bunk beds, en-suite bathroom, sink, balcony, Wardrobe and Fridge Freezer. In the communal area there's free Internet, a massive kitchen, tables, lounge area, pool and parking. It's a stone's throw from the esplanade but far enough away that it's fairly quiet. Loved it.
Also, as Pro-Dive correctly informed me, it's only a couple of blocks from the 24-Hour Medical centre and 2 doors down from their shop. As instructed I dumped my bags (by which I mean I literally went in removed them onto my bed, grabbed my wallet and left straight away) and headed to the medical centre. I was worried as I had only just about got rid of the worst of the cold and was serruptisiously blowing my nose whilst sitting in the waiting room - mostly by going to see what fascinating things the pharmacy had! Passed everything I needed to - discovered I need to lose at least 3/4stone to be at my target weight (project for when I get back?) and went straight to Pro-Dive wear they checked everything thoroughly and then kitted me out with my BCD, fins, mask & snorkel.
Went for a stroll along the esplanade and found a pizza for $9 (Dominic's) and ate it whilst devouring some surfing time at a local internet place. The guy in the booth next to me asked me where I got it and then left about 3mins later!
Next morning I was at the shop for 6:10 (after discovering that I had failed to alter my alarm to Adelaide time and having a small coronary on looking at my watch) and once everyone had arrived and been checked in we were driven out to Scuba Pro II.
I wish I could describe how awesome my time onboard was but it would take ages (and it's not like me to rattle on....*hm*) so I'll try to keep it brief.
My instructor was Chris, brilliant teacher and made me and the other newbie to the 5-day learning group feel welcome and included. The whole crew were so personable and approachable, you felt safe at all times and everything was done with great attention to detail. The boat was clean and very practical. I ended up with my own room on the top deck which was nice although barely anytime was spent in there. Max was our chef and the meals were healthy and filling - he manged to bake a cake everyday as well as everything else :)
We were really lucky with the weather and the sun shone and the sky was blue the whole way through the time on the reef. I completed my 4 training dives by the 2nd day and then was free to dive with my Buddy (Dutch guy named Luit) on the other dives. Important thing to remember when doing training dives in the sea - when you have to clear your mask of water, don't open your eyes, salt stings.
My ear was not a happy bunny on that first free dive and some water got in making me exceptionally dizzy so we surfaced and I had to be 'tired diver' towed to the boat. That night was out night dive. I wasn't going to try but in the end though I'd kick myself if it turned out to be fine - which it did! And besides, who doesn't want to jump into the dark (not that it was really that dark with all the lights on) when they've been feeding the grey reef sharks off the boat beforehand and they're still hanging around to see if their luck's in? Next morning ear went bad again so decided on snorkeling for the next 2 to give it a rest. I had started my Adventure Diver but as I'd not filled in the book it didn't matter, my night dive still counts though :)
The Great Barrier Reef is very like Uluru in a way - so much to see it's really hard to take it in. On our training dives we did skills with a swim around in between and then skills at the end - so taking in what I was looking at was tricky. I do remember the Moray Eel with it's scary looking head and looooong body. The Christmas tree coral that were blue and looked like festive trees - until you ran you hand past them and they shrunk back into the rock. Diving and snorkeling I saw, amongst other things: Nemo's, Dori's, Red Bass, Trumpet Fish, Lion Fish, Parrot Fish, Napoleon Wrasse, Fusilier Fish, Butterfly Fish, Sea Cucumbers, Giant (and I mean GIANT) Clams, Banner Fish, all sorts of colourful coral, Humbug Fish, Goat fish - and most excitingly, Flat Worm (doesn't sound exciting but hard to find and sooo pretty) Blue Spotted Rays, a White tipped Reef Shark, and....a TURTLE!!! The turtle was so special. I spotted it and could hear it munching away when I was snorkeling. Then it came up to the surface for air and we swam along next to it for a bit before it disappeared back down. So beautiful :)
I can't wait to come back some time and explore more. I will definitely be coming with Pro-Dive, they made the whole thing so relaxed and there was the right balance of rest and Diving.
After lunch on the last day we headed for shore and then got dropped off back at the store, pottered next door to the hostel to settle in and then headed out to meet everyone for a meal at 'Rattle & Hum'. Good Times:)
Wednesday 28 July 2010
The Rock Tour
After a lovely morning watcing the world (now definitely more Red) whizz by I stepped off onto the ground in a warm & sunny Alice Springs.
Stopped by the Rock Tour office to check in for tomorrow and then headed over the bridge to Alice's Secret.
The first thing that struck me about Alice is the Aborigones. After the tour I learned that they live out on the river bed and surrounding bush (mostly in tents from what I could see) and then they have a school and communtiy centre that they use. There were a lot of middle aged and older dressed in 'normal' casual clothing and just sitting, wandering around and generally seeming quite without purpose. It gave me an odd feeling and as the days went on here I began to understand more of their culture and more about why things are the way they are now. I did see some younger guys heading out to play basketball - an you wouldn't really have been able to distinguish them from the white guys (they refer to each other as black & white over here - no anonimity meant).
The hostel I was staying in had been taken over by new owners and didn't have my booking - however all was sorted very quickly and it's a nice quiet place. Went for a wander into town and had Camel for tea. Very tasty - like beef.
Next morning I was up at some un-earthly hour (again!) and waiting outside with an Austrian couple, for the Rock Tour mini-bus. It arrived complete with trailer with the Swags on top (these were to be our beds for the next 2 nights) and, after picking up a few others we set off.
It took somewhere in the region of 4 1/2 hours to get out to the Red Centre proper. We passed the time sleeping, reading and listening to Sam's (our guide - Little Sam/Kiwi Sam) impressive iPod playlist.
I also listened to the whole of Bleak Expectations Seasons 2, although had to remind myself that there were others around and laughing out loud to myself was probably not the best way to convince people I was sane!
Kings Canyon was the first stop. Walked up 'Heart Attack Hill' and then along over the top admiring the stunning views of the flat land, the gorges on either side and learning loads about the geology and cultural significance of the place. Sam's knowledge is incredible and he certainly has a deep respect for the local Aborigones. He taught us about the different plants and that most of them have 2 uses - food & medicinal. He showed us fossils that indicate that this area was once underwater and about how the are was formed. Also taught us how to cathc an emu - just in case.
Stopped to watch the sunset over Mt Connell and the Salt Lake.-
Back in the bus and off to our campsite for the night. Stopped to collect firewood out in the scrub and then onto their campground. Campground consists of a firepit, an area with a plastic shelter in case it rains, and a dunny in a shed.
We all pitched in to cook an amazing meal of Chiili, roast vegetables & rice. All cooked used the coals from the fire that I was a marshal of.
Settled down to sleep around the fire in our swags staring up at the beautifully clear night sky. Rained in the night so we moved under the shelter but other than that amazing!
Next morning up at 5:30am and on our way to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). These HUOGE Boulder looking formations are actually made form much smaller rocks stuck together with mud. We did the Valley of the winds walk and at times it really lived up to its name - even though we had a stunning blue sky again - so blue infact it was almost painful to look at it against the glowing Red Rocks. Again Sam explained to us about the vegetationa dn the loval beliefs. This place is sacred because they belive that these rocks are the heads of their ancestors. It is also a sacres place for men - women could be killed for coming here. He also showed us how the ochres are made for the body paints and explained, both goelogically and mythically, how Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Mt Connell and the Salt Lake were formed. Truly and amazing thing to hear and take on board.
After lunch (and some fun with a Red Bull ant nest and a golden Orb spider in the toilets - which clearly though it had the best deal of any spider in Australia, having spun a web covering the entire toilet block) we headed over the main event - Uluru.
First we ducked into the cultural centre to get in the mood and then out to the rock. Sam sat us down and talked us through our option of climbing. We were divided into people who didn't want to climb because they knew it was disrespectful, and people who didn't know you could climb it. This was good and made things much easier! Sam explained that climbing is not good for 2 reasons. One might even venture 2 bloody good reasens.
1) It is disrespectful to the local people. Uluru was used almost as an entire home to them up until about 100yrs agoand today is still the most sacred site. 13/14yr old boys would go walkabout. This means they go into the bush, by themselves, and have to survive fior 3-4 YEARS. When they return they are considered to be ready to become men and be intitiated into the tribe. They come back from walkabout and meet their grandfather at the foot of the climb. He talks to them and explains a few things - then they have to do the climb and walk around to a cave (the actual Uluru) and under go initiation to became a man.
When you rock up in an air conditioned bus with lots of water, and then, because it's a hard climb and you've eaten, need to go to the toilet up there that is highly disrespectful. Not only that but all the 'stuff' (including sanitary items) left up there are not brought down and so as the rainwater has run off it has contaminated the 2 waterholes making the unuseable. It would be as if someone went into a church and decided that the altar was a perfect place to uload.
2) It's unsafe. They really don't do Heath & Safety out there and when you see how steep the climb is, how high the rock is and how easily you could slip - and the only thing to hold onto is an old link chain fence, you really have to be an oddball to want to go up. The last person to die there only did so a month ago - just slipped and fell. People die from heart attacks from the exertion in the heat as well. If someone dies the Aborigines believe it their fault - their law says that if something happens to someone on your land it is your fault, therefore they have to perform a massive ceremony and it upsets them deeply.
All in all I can't see why anyone would want to go up there. If they want to see lots of flat nothing from a great height - go to Kings Canyon, it's not much shorter.
[/rant]
We did a short walk to several caves and sites, Sam again explaining the significance of each one and some more about the symbols and folklore of the local people.
Then we headed off to the sunset watch point. Sam cooked us dinner while we took many photos and enjoyed some chill time. Slept in swags again but at a regular campsite. I had a cold by this point (and was beginning to panic about diving....) so me and others who suspected rain opted for the laundry room. About 5 mins after settling down the rain started and everyone else swiftly followed!
Next morning we went back to the rock and did the base walk unaccompanied. Every time you turned a 'corner' there was something Else to see, a changing rock face, a small waterfall, a differently formed cave, different stages of vegetation, holes in the rock like Swiss cheese - so much it was hard to take it all in.
After this it was tine to head off. We dropped a few folks off at the airport and hostels and then headed back for the long drive.
That evening we had a quick meet up in the pub, but by this time I was feeling pretty bleugh with cold-ness so went home for a long sleep. Not until taking a shower with a Red Back watching me though!!
Stopped by the Rock Tour office to check in for tomorrow and then headed over the bridge to Alice's Secret.
The first thing that struck me about Alice is the Aborigones. After the tour I learned that they live out on the river bed and surrounding bush (mostly in tents from what I could see) and then they have a school and communtiy centre that they use. There were a lot of middle aged and older dressed in 'normal' casual clothing and just sitting, wandering around and generally seeming quite without purpose. It gave me an odd feeling and as the days went on here I began to understand more of their culture and more about why things are the way they are now. I did see some younger guys heading out to play basketball - an you wouldn't really have been able to distinguish them from the white guys (they refer to each other as black & white over here - no anonimity meant).
The hostel I was staying in had been taken over by new owners and didn't have my booking - however all was sorted very quickly and it's a nice quiet place. Went for a wander into town and had Camel for tea. Very tasty - like beef.
Next morning I was up at some un-earthly hour (again!) and waiting outside with an Austrian couple, for the Rock Tour mini-bus. It arrived complete with trailer with the Swags on top (these were to be our beds for the next 2 nights) and, after picking up a few others we set off.
It took somewhere in the region of 4 1/2 hours to get out to the Red Centre proper. We passed the time sleeping, reading and listening to Sam's (our guide - Little Sam/Kiwi Sam) impressive iPod playlist.
I also listened to the whole of Bleak Expectations Seasons 2, although had to remind myself that there were others around and laughing out loud to myself was probably not the best way to convince people I was sane!
Kings Canyon was the first stop. Walked up 'Heart Attack Hill' and then along over the top admiring the stunning views of the flat land, the gorges on either side and learning loads about the geology and cultural significance of the place. Sam's knowledge is incredible and he certainly has a deep respect for the local Aborigones. He taught us about the different plants and that most of them have 2 uses - food & medicinal. He showed us fossils that indicate that this area was once underwater and about how the are was formed. Also taught us how to cathc an emu - just in case.
Stopped to watch the sunset over Mt Connell and the Salt Lake.-
Back in the bus and off to our campsite for the night. Stopped to collect firewood out in the scrub and then onto their campground. Campground consists of a firepit, an area with a plastic shelter in case it rains, and a dunny in a shed.
We all pitched in to cook an amazing meal of Chiili, roast vegetables & rice. All cooked used the coals from the fire that I was a marshal of.
Settled down to sleep around the fire in our swags staring up at the beautifully clear night sky. Rained in the night so we moved under the shelter but other than that amazing!
Next morning up at 5:30am and on our way to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). These HUOGE Boulder looking formations are actually made form much smaller rocks stuck together with mud. We did the Valley of the winds walk and at times it really lived up to its name - even though we had a stunning blue sky again - so blue infact it was almost painful to look at it against the glowing Red Rocks. Again Sam explained to us about the vegetationa dn the loval beliefs. This place is sacred because they belive that these rocks are the heads of their ancestors. It is also a sacres place for men - women could be killed for coming here. He also showed us how the ochres are made for the body paints and explained, both goelogically and mythically, how Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Mt Connell and the Salt Lake were formed. Truly and amazing thing to hear and take on board.
After lunch (and some fun with a Red Bull ant nest and a golden Orb spider in the toilets - which clearly though it had the best deal of any spider in Australia, having spun a web covering the entire toilet block) we headed over the main event - Uluru.
First we ducked into the cultural centre to get in the mood and then out to the rock. Sam sat us down and talked us through our option of climbing. We were divided into people who didn't want to climb because they knew it was disrespectful, and people who didn't know you could climb it. This was good and made things much easier! Sam explained that climbing is not good for 2 reasons. One might even venture 2 bloody good reasens.
1) It is disrespectful to the local people. Uluru was used almost as an entire home to them up until about 100yrs agoand today is still the most sacred site. 13/14yr old boys would go walkabout. This means they go into the bush, by themselves, and have to survive fior 3-4 YEARS. When they return they are considered to be ready to become men and be intitiated into the tribe. They come back from walkabout and meet their grandfather at the foot of the climb. He talks to them and explains a few things - then they have to do the climb and walk around to a cave (the actual Uluru) and under go initiation to became a man.
When you rock up in an air conditioned bus with lots of water, and then, because it's a hard climb and you've eaten, need to go to the toilet up there that is highly disrespectful. Not only that but all the 'stuff' (including sanitary items) left up there are not brought down and so as the rainwater has run off it has contaminated the 2 waterholes making the unuseable. It would be as if someone went into a church and decided that the altar was a perfect place to uload.
2) It's unsafe. They really don't do Heath & Safety out there and when you see how steep the climb is, how high the rock is and how easily you could slip - and the only thing to hold onto is an old link chain fence, you really have to be an oddball to want to go up. The last person to die there only did so a month ago - just slipped and fell. People die from heart attacks from the exertion in the heat as well. If someone dies the Aborigines believe it their fault - their law says that if something happens to someone on your land it is your fault, therefore they have to perform a massive ceremony and it upsets them deeply.
All in all I can't see why anyone would want to go up there. If they want to see lots of flat nothing from a great height - go to Kings Canyon, it's not much shorter.
[/rant]
We did a short walk to several caves and sites, Sam again explaining the significance of each one and some more about the symbols and folklore of the local people.
Then we headed off to the sunset watch point. Sam cooked us dinner while we took many photos and enjoyed some chill time. Slept in swags again but at a regular campsite. I had a cold by this point (and was beginning to panic about diving....) so me and others who suspected rain opted for the laundry room. About 5 mins after settling down the rain started and everyone else swiftly followed!
Next morning we went back to the rock and did the base walk unaccompanied. Every time you turned a 'corner' there was something Else to see, a changing rock face, a small waterfall, a differently formed cave, different stages of vegetation, holes in the rock like Swiss cheese - so much it was hard to take it all in.
After this it was tine to head off. We dropped a few folks off at the airport and hostels and then headed back for the long drive.
That evening we had a quick meet up in the pub, but by this time I was feeling pretty bleugh with cold-ness so went home for a long sleep. Not until taking a shower with a Red Back watching me though!!
Sunday 25 July 2010
The Ghan
One oif the guys from the hostel gave me lift to the station. Checked my luggage in to a very chirpy man behind the Train counter (did I mention how friendly ALL Australians have been? They really are you know) and then a good hour hanging around trying not to be tempted by the cafe before boarding.
After some shuffling of other passengers I ended up with an empty seat next to me which was nice. Train travel id definitely the way to go. Loads of room, Seats that almost recline horizontalx and a buffet car so that you can recreate scenes from any 50's American film that features one if the mood takes you. Sadly I thought that a rendition of "Snow, Snow, Snow" from 'White Christmas' (it's always snowy in Vermont) would not go well with the red surroundings.
Watched the scenery change from green to red with scrub, a fantastic sunset and then settled back for a relaxing sleep.
After some shuffling of other passengers I ended up with an empty seat next to me which was nice. Train travel id definitely the way to go. Loads of room, Seats that almost recline horizontalx and a buffet car so that you can recreate scenes from any 50's American film that features one if the mood takes you. Sadly I thought that a rendition of "Snow, Snow, Snow" from 'White Christmas' (it's always snowy in Vermont) would not go well with the red surroundings.
Watched the scenery change from green to red with scrub, a fantastic sunset and then settled back for a relaxing sleep.
Saturday 24 July 2010
Adeladie here I come
A lie in, how nice.
Tiger airways to Adelaide. A cross between easyjet and Ryan air. Easyjet because they have a TV show and Ryan air because they are very cheap. They are also very strict so I was gald when I managed to keep my main sack under 15kg and my hand luggage at 6.7k (max is 7 - and they do not like it if it's over!). Tiny lounge with a lovely long walk over the tarmac to the plane. All said the flight was good, on time and the staff (as with all Aussies I've met so far) were highly friendly.
Didn't really pay attention when I booked my accomodation but it was out of Adelaide in Glenelg - whiuch actually turned out really well as it was right by the beach and very peaceful. Enjoyed some more Flake and Chips whilst watching the stunning sunset sat on the beach. There was a chocolate cafe in the high street so I finally gave into my curiositsy to try a hot chocolate with chilli & cinnamon. If you've ever read 'Chocolat' or 'The Lollipop Shoes' then you will know what I mean. If you haven't I definitley recommend them....unless you're on a diet in which case I'd lock them in a safe somewhere.
In brief, the chilli hits your mouth in the first swig and after that you can mostly taste the cinnamon and have a nice warm feeling with every mouthful, mostly though, it's chilli - weirdly nice.
The hostel was cool, 4 victorian houses joined together with kitchens, TV room and bar in the basement. Sweet.
Tiger airways to Adelaide. A cross between easyjet and Ryan air. Easyjet because they have a TV show and Ryan air because they are very cheap. They are also very strict so I was gald when I managed to keep my main sack under 15kg and my hand luggage at 6.7k (max is 7 - and they do not like it if it's over!). Tiny lounge with a lovely long walk over the tarmac to the plane. All said the flight was good, on time and the staff (as with all Aussies I've met so far) were highly friendly.
Didn't really pay attention when I booked my accomodation but it was out of Adelaide in Glenelg - whiuch actually turned out really well as it was right by the beach and very peaceful. Enjoyed some more Flake and Chips whilst watching the stunning sunset sat on the beach. There was a chocolate cafe in the high street so I finally gave into my curiositsy to try a hot chocolate with chilli & cinnamon. If you've ever read 'Chocolat' or 'The Lollipop Shoes' then you will know what I mean. If you haven't I definitley recommend them....unless you're on a diet in which case I'd lock them in a safe somewhere.
In brief, the chilli hits your mouth in the first swig and after that you can mostly taste the cinnamon and have a nice warm feeling with every mouthful, mostly though, it's chilli - weirdly nice.
The hostel was cool, 4 victorian houses joined together with kitchens, TV room and bar in the basement. Sweet.
Friday 23 July 2010
Dizzy Heights and the AFL
Met up with Emily in the city today. Had a great view of the city form the top of the Eureka sky deck (230m up) - which included being pushed out of the side of the building in a metal and glass box with panels that, once fully out, revealed the views form the side - and underneath! Not as scary as I would have thought but definitely all the more entertaining for the groaning and creaking sound effects played over the top :)
Exlpored the city some more accompanied by a shnazzy latte and waffle from DeGraves.
Main highlight of the afternoon was definitely the Melbourne Museum. Spent a large and diturbing amount of time in the BUGS section of the animal bit where they had live specimens of all those spiders you are supposed to avoid. Which was actually fascinating and very helpful for recognising if the thing currently making it's way towards you is harmless, will make you numb for a good long time or is capable of dropping you with a single bite.
So I got to see a Red Back (surprisingly small - and mostly black), some Orbs, a White Tail and a Funnel-Web. There were also lots of huge ants and many, very pretty and harmless, things pinned to crates - or arranged into lovely displays.
The Orbs, by the way, are kept in an open fronted dark room and are fed once a day from below. Apparently they only had an escape twice in the past 10 years. How reassuring.
Best quote:
"If alone when bitten by one of Australia's highly venomous Funnel-web spiders, first make peace with your God, then go to a hospital"
How reassuring.
Other sections of the museum included the living forest (a forest in the middle of the building but the ceiling is just a net - quite cool as they designed it so you could see under the water) a section on the human body and mind (included Aser's (?) room with a camera on delay so you go out and watch yourself get bigger and smaller) a section on early Australia an other bits and bobs, and a aection on the indeginous people of Melbourne. You could happily spend most of the day there exploring!
That evening D,A &D came into the city and I was taken to my first AFL game (which Ashton Kutcher was also attending). It was Hawks (Hawthorns) v Saints (St Kilda). Dee & A barrack for Hawks and D barracks for Saints, a theme echoed in a lot of the families and groups I saw with no apparent anonimity between either - apart from some good natured ribbing. Loved the game, it ended in a draw and got pretty suspensful with some disallowed goals due to too many people on the pitch, which sounds odd until you understand that the team don't only have the players on the pitch. Just one of the strange but fab things. It took me about 15mins to grasp the rules. If I had to describe it I would say that it cam about due to people wanting to play rugby but not quite remembering the rules - and making some of there own up. My favourite thing was probably the fact that it was the refs who did the throw ins and they have to do it backwards. They are just as fit as the players (and frankly that's a goood enough reason to spend 2 hours watching :)) and need need to be able to hurl that thing a good long way and high.
Amusing biut at the beginning when they have 3 members of the public on to try and kick goals. The competitors...A young boy, a fairly fit and definitley-serious-about-it Aussie, and an English guy called James who had no clue what was going on. I'll leave it up to you to decide who won......
Exlpored the city some more accompanied by a shnazzy latte and waffle from DeGraves.
Main highlight of the afternoon was definitely the Melbourne Museum. Spent a large and diturbing amount of time in the BUGS section of the animal bit where they had live specimens of all those spiders you are supposed to avoid. Which was actually fascinating and very helpful for recognising if the thing currently making it's way towards you is harmless, will make you numb for a good long time or is capable of dropping you with a single bite.
So I got to see a Red Back (surprisingly small - and mostly black), some Orbs, a White Tail and a Funnel-Web. There were also lots of huge ants and many, very pretty and harmless, things pinned to crates - or arranged into lovely displays.
The Orbs, by the way, are kept in an open fronted dark room and are fed once a day from below. Apparently they only had an escape twice in the past 10 years. How reassuring.
Best quote:
"If alone when bitten by one of Australia's highly venomous Funnel-web spiders, first make peace with your God, then go to a hospital"
How reassuring.
Other sections of the museum included the living forest (a forest in the middle of the building but the ceiling is just a net - quite cool as they designed it so you could see under the water) a section on the human body and mind (included Aser's (?) room with a camera on delay so you go out and watch yourself get bigger and smaller) a section on early Australia an other bits and bobs, and a aection on the indeginous people of Melbourne. You could happily spend most of the day there exploring!
That evening D,A &D came into the city and I was taken to my first AFL game (which Ashton Kutcher was also attending). It was Hawks (Hawthorns) v Saints (St Kilda). Dee & A barrack for Hawks and D barracks for Saints, a theme echoed in a lot of the families and groups I saw with no apparent anonimity between either - apart from some good natured ribbing. Loved the game, it ended in a draw and got pretty suspensful with some disallowed goals due to too many people on the pitch, which sounds odd until you understand that the team don't only have the players on the pitch. Just one of the strange but fab things. It took me about 15mins to grasp the rules. If I had to describe it I would say that it cam about due to people wanting to play rugby but not quite remembering the rules - and making some of there own up. My favourite thing was probably the fact that it was the refs who did the throw ins and they have to do it backwards. They are just as fit as the players (and frankly that's a goood enough reason to spend 2 hours watching :)) and need need to be able to hurl that thing a good long way and high.
Amusing biut at the beginning when they have 3 members of the public on to try and kick goals. The competitors...A young boy, a fairly fit and definitley-serious-about-it Aussie, and an English guy called James who had no clue what was going on. I'll leave it up to you to decide who won......
Wednesday 21 July 2010
Exploring the city
Had an hour in school with Dee this morning, good to know that no matter what side of the pond you're on all Primary school classes start with saying good morning, all staff rooms have roughly the same chairs, kids lose their planners and house points are awarded!
Caught the train into the city and stopped into Bunyip tours to see when I could get on the neighbours tour - "tomorrow? Fab!". So I had the rest of the day to mooch.
STopped at the amazingly well stocked, laid out and staffed Federation Square Tourist Information office. Don't be fooled by the empty looking glass room - the stuff is all downstairs - a theme I have found common in Melbourne, perhaps a worrying one! Picked up many leaflets and brochures, then put most back. Having scoured my Lonely Planet, and taken advice form Andrew, Dee and a few others I had a fair idea of what I wanted to do so decided to focus on that.
Decided on a few walking tours, stopping off to places on the way round. There's also a free - that;s right FREE - tourist bus service around the city which includes a brief but informative audio commentary on the way round. Also there's the brown city loop tram which is also FREE. Seriously, if you want a city that's very welcoming AND provides excellently for it's visitors with so many free and QUALITY attractions - this is the place to come!
Headed for Little Italy and Lygon Street first. Finally settled on Pappa Gino's and had a mound of pasta with a glass of vino and a coke for a respectable $20, then, fully stuffed headed over to the Victoria Markets. They were shutting up as I arrived (hopefully get to see it in full swing another day) but I could still see the scale of the thing! Walked back to Flinders Street and along to Fed Sq again to start my walk.
This walk took me South of the river through King's Domain and around the Botanic Gardens (again - all FREE). This included seeing the Melbourne Performing Arts Centre with it's Eiffel Tower-esque spire. Going inside the Shrine of Remembrance and witnessing a re-enactment of the 11/11 ceremony is oddly moving. Every year on remembrance day at 11:11am the sun shines through two tiny holes in the roof and a ray of light moves across the word 'LOVE' on the memorial stone. To demonstrate this on the hour and the half hour all year they play the last post and a small moving light creates the same ray. Having walked through the rest of the building and read the names outside on the memorials it was a somber moment even with only one other person there.
To break out of this reverie if you head out on the balcony you get the most amazing view of the city skyline...did I mention this is free? After this you walk through the Botanic Gardens, which must be packed in their summer time, but were still great to walk round and have lots to offer at this time of year. It was getting dark by the time I was nearing the end and the 'Tan' (Melbourne's answer to Hyde Park's Horse track) was beginning to fill up with runners - really, they do like their running here, I felt a bit guilty strolling along! I also managed to catch sight of a possum in a tree whilst walking back through the park. I was trying to be quiet - until I took a flash photo by mistake and it didn't even flinch!
I went back up to see one of the things I had passed on the way down - the Melbourne Bowl. It's an outdoor Concert venue with a permanent concrete stage and massive awning sheltering hundreds (if not thousands) of fold down chairs, right in the middle of the park. The acoustics and spectacle of seeing the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra play there must be electric. But what I found more striking was - there were no big fences, no really obvious security - and yet, there was no visible vandalism, no hordes of teenagers loafing around with 'nowt to do. It really seemed like something the whole city was proud of and no one wanted to spoil it.
Caught the train into the city and stopped into Bunyip tours to see when I could get on the neighbours tour - "tomorrow? Fab!". So I had the rest of the day to mooch.
STopped at the amazingly well stocked, laid out and staffed Federation Square Tourist Information office. Don't be fooled by the empty looking glass room - the stuff is all downstairs - a theme I have found common in Melbourne, perhaps a worrying one! Picked up many leaflets and brochures, then put most back. Having scoured my Lonely Planet, and taken advice form Andrew, Dee and a few others I had a fair idea of what I wanted to do so decided to focus on that.
Decided on a few walking tours, stopping off to places on the way round. There's also a free - that;s right FREE - tourist bus service around the city which includes a brief but informative audio commentary on the way round. Also there's the brown city loop tram which is also FREE. Seriously, if you want a city that's very welcoming AND provides excellently for it's visitors with so many free and QUALITY attractions - this is the place to come!
Headed for Little Italy and Lygon Street first. Finally settled on Pappa Gino's and had a mound of pasta with a glass of vino and a coke for a respectable $20, then, fully stuffed headed over to the Victoria Markets. They were shutting up as I arrived (hopefully get to see it in full swing another day) but I could still see the scale of the thing! Walked back to Flinders Street and along to Fed Sq again to start my walk.
This walk took me South of the river through King's Domain and around the Botanic Gardens (again - all FREE). This included seeing the Melbourne Performing Arts Centre with it's Eiffel Tower-esque spire. Going inside the Shrine of Remembrance and witnessing a re-enactment of the 11/11 ceremony is oddly moving. Every year on remembrance day at 11:11am the sun shines through two tiny holes in the roof and a ray of light moves across the word 'LOVE' on the memorial stone. To demonstrate this on the hour and the half hour all year they play the last post and a small moving light creates the same ray. Having walked through the rest of the building and read the names outside on the memorials it was a somber moment even with only one other person there.
To break out of this reverie if you head out on the balcony you get the most amazing view of the city skyline...did I mention this is free? After this you walk through the Botanic Gardens, which must be packed in their summer time, but were still great to walk round and have lots to offer at this time of year. It was getting dark by the time I was nearing the end and the 'Tan' (Melbourne's answer to Hyde Park's Horse track) was beginning to fill up with runners - really, they do like their running here, I felt a bit guilty strolling along! I also managed to catch sight of a possum in a tree whilst walking back through the park. I was trying to be quiet - until I took a flash photo by mistake and it didn't even flinch!
I went back up to see one of the things I had passed on the way down - the Melbourne Bowl. It's an outdoor Concert venue with a permanent concrete stage and massive awning sheltering hundreds (if not thousands) of fold down chairs, right in the middle of the park. The acoustics and spectacle of seeing the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra play there must be electric. But what I found more striking was - there were no big fences, no really obvious security - and yet, there was no visible vandalism, no hordes of teenagers loafing around with 'nowt to do. It really seemed like something the whole city was proud of and no one wanted to spoil it.
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