Wednesday 28 July 2010

The Rock Tour

After a lovely morning watcing the world (now definitely more Red) whizz by I stepped off onto the ground in a warm & sunny Alice Springs.

Stopped by the Rock Tour office to check in for tomorrow and then headed over the bridge to Alice's Secret.

The first thing that struck me about Alice is the Aborigones. After the tour I learned that they live out on the river bed and surrounding bush (mostly in tents from what I could see) and then they have a school and communtiy centre that they use. There were a lot of middle aged and older dressed in 'normal' casual clothing and just sitting, wandering around and generally seeming quite without purpose. It gave me an odd feeling and as the days went on here I began to understand more of their culture and more about why things are the way they are now. I did see some younger guys heading out to play basketball - an you wouldn't really have been able to distinguish them from the white guys (they refer to each other as black & white over here - no anonimity meant).

The hostel I was staying in had been taken over by new owners and didn't have my booking - however all was sorted very quickly and it's a nice quiet place. Went for a wander into town and had Camel for tea. Very tasty - like beef.

Next morning I was up at some un-earthly hour (again!) and waiting outside with an Austrian couple, for the Rock Tour mini-bus. It arrived complete with trailer with the Swags on top (these were to be our beds for the next 2 nights) and, after picking up a few others we set off.

It took somewhere in the region of 4 1/2 hours to get out to the Red Centre proper. We passed the time sleeping, reading and listening to Sam's (our guide - Little Sam/Kiwi Sam) impressive iPod playlist.

I also listened to the whole of Bleak Expectations Seasons 2, although had to remind myself that there were others around and laughing out loud to myself was probably not the best way to convince people I was sane!

Kings Canyon was the first stop. Walked up 'Heart Attack Hill' and then along over the top admiring the stunning views of the flat land, the gorges on either side and learning loads about the geology and cultural significance of the place. Sam's knowledge is incredible and he certainly has a deep respect for the local Aborigones. He taught us about the different plants and that most of them have 2 uses - food & medicinal. He showed us fossils that indicate that this area was once underwater and about how the are was formed. Also taught us how to cathc an emu - just in case.

Stopped to watch the sunset over Mt Connell and the Salt Lake.-

Back in the bus and off to our campsite for the night. Stopped to collect firewood out in the scrub and then onto their campground. Campground consists of a firepit, an area with a plastic shelter in case it rains, and a dunny in a shed.

We all pitched in to cook an amazing meal of Chiili, roast vegetables & rice. All cooked used the coals from the fire that I was a marshal of.

Settled down to sleep around the fire in our swags staring up at the beautifully clear night sky. Rained in the night so we moved under the shelter but other than that amazing!

Next morning up at 5:30am and on our way to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). These HUOGE Boulder looking formations are actually made form much smaller rocks stuck together with mud. We did the Valley of the winds walk and at times it really lived up to its name - even though we had a stunning blue sky again - so blue infact it was almost painful to look at it against the glowing Red Rocks. Again Sam explained to us about the vegetationa dn the loval beliefs. This place is sacred because they belive that these rocks are the heads of their ancestors. It is also a sacres place for men - women could be killed for coming here. He also showed us how the ochres are made for the body paints and explained, both goelogically and mythically, how Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Mt Connell and the Salt Lake were formed. Truly and amazing thing to hear and take on board.

After lunch (and some fun with a Red Bull ant nest and a golden Orb spider in the toilets - which clearly though it had the best deal of any spider in Australia, having spun a web covering the entire toilet block) we headed over the main event - Uluru.

First we ducked into the cultural centre to get in the mood and then out to the rock. Sam sat us down and talked us through our option of climbing. We were divided into people who didn't want to climb because they knew it was disrespectful, and people who didn't know you could climb it. This was good and made things much easier! Sam explained that climbing is not good for 2 reasons. One might even venture 2 bloody good reasens.

1) It is disrespectful to the local people. Uluru was used almost as an entire home to them up until about 100yrs agoand today is still the most sacred site. 13/14yr old boys would go walkabout. This means they go into the bush, by themselves, and have to survive fior 3-4 YEARS. When they return they are considered to be ready to become men and be intitiated into the tribe. They come back from walkabout and meet their grandfather at the foot of the climb. He talks to them and explains a few things - then they have to do the climb and walk around to a cave (the actual Uluru) and under go initiation to became a man.

When you rock up in an air conditioned bus with lots of water, and then, because it's a hard climb and you've eaten, need to go to the toilet up there that is highly disrespectful. Not only that but all the 'stuff' (including sanitary items) left up there are not brought down and so as the rainwater has run off it has contaminated the 2 waterholes making the unuseable. It would be as if someone went into a church and decided that the altar was a perfect place to uload.

2) It's unsafe. They really don't do Heath & Safety out there and when you see how steep the climb is, how high the rock is and how easily you could slip - and the only thing to hold onto is an old link chain fence, you really have to be an oddball to want to go up. The last person to die there only did so a month ago - just slipped and fell. People die from heart attacks from the exertion in the heat as well. If someone dies the Aborigines believe it their fault - their law says that if something happens to someone on your land it is your fault, therefore they have to perform a massive ceremony and it upsets them deeply.

All in all I can't see why anyone would want to go up there. If they want to see lots of flat nothing from a great height - go to Kings Canyon, it's not much shorter.

[/rant]

We did a short walk to several caves and sites, Sam again explaining the significance of each one and some more about the symbols and folklore of the local people.

Then we headed off to the sunset watch point. Sam cooked us dinner while we took many photos and enjoyed some chill time. Slept in swags again but at a regular campsite. I had a cold by this point (and was beginning to panic about diving....) so me and others who suspected rain opted for the laundry room. About 5 mins after settling down the rain started and everyone else swiftly followed!

Next morning we went back to the rock and did the base walk unaccompanied. Every time you turned a 'corner' there was something Else to see, a changing rock face, a small waterfall, a differently formed cave, different stages of vegetation, holes in the rock like Swiss cheese - so much it was hard to take it all in.

After this it was tine to head off. We dropped a few folks off at the airport and hostels and then headed back for the long drive.

That evening we had a quick meet up in the pub, but by this time I was feeling pretty bleugh with cold-ness so went home for a long sleep. Not until taking a shower with a Red Back watching me though!!

Sunday 25 July 2010

The Ghan

One oif the guys from the hostel gave me lift to the station. Checked my luggage in to a very chirpy man behind the Train counter (did I mention how friendly ALL Australians have been?  They really are you know) and then a good hour hanging around trying not to be tempted by the cafe before boarding.

After  some shuffling of other passengers I ended up with an empty seat next to me which was nice. Train travel id definitely the way to go. Loads of room, Seats that almost recline horizontalx and a buffet car so that you can recreate scenes from any 50's American film that features one  if the mood takes you. Sadly I thought that a rendition of "Snow, Snow, Snow" from 'White Christmas' (it's always snowy in Vermont) would not go well with the red surroundings.

Watched the scenery change from green to red with scrub, a fantastic sunset and then settled back for a relaxing sleep.

Saturday 24 July 2010

Adeladie here I come

A lie in, how nice.

Tiger airways to Adelaide. A cross between easyjet and Ryan air. Easyjet because they have a TV show and Ryan air because they are very cheap. They are also very strict so I was gald when I managed to keep my main sack under 15kg and my hand luggage at 6.7k (max is 7 - and they do not like it if it's over!). Tiny lounge with a lovely long walk over the tarmac to the plane. All said the flight was good, on time and the staff (as with all Aussies I've met so far) were highly friendly.

Didn't really pay attention when I booked my accomodation but it was out of Adelaide in Glenelg - whiuch actually turned out really well as it was right by the beach and very peaceful. Enjoyed some more Flake and Chips whilst watching the stunning sunset sat on the beach. There was a chocolate cafe in the high street so I finally gave into my curiositsy to try a hot chocolate with chilli & cinnamon. If you've ever read 'Chocolat' or 'The Lollipop Shoes' then you will know what I mean. If you haven't I definitley recommend them....unless you're on a diet in which case I'd lock them in a safe somewhere.

In brief, the chilli hits your mouth in the first swig and after that you can mostly taste the cinnamon and have a nice warm feeling with every mouthful, mostly though, it's chilli - weirdly nice.

The hostel was cool, 4 victorian houses joined together with kitchens, TV room and bar in the basement. Sweet.

Friday 23 July 2010

Dizzy Heights and the AFL

Met up with Emily in the city today. Had a great view of the city form the top of the Eureka sky deck (230m up) - which included being pushed out of the side of the building in a metal and glass box with panels that, once fully out, revealed the views form the side - and underneath! Not as scary as I would have thought but definitely all the more entertaining for the groaning and creaking sound effects played over the top :)

Exlpored the city some more accompanied by a shnazzy latte and waffle from DeGraves.

Main highlight of the afternoon was definitely the Melbourne Museum. Spent a large and diturbing amount of time in the BUGS section of the animal bit where they had live specimens of all those spiders you are supposed to avoid. Which was actually fascinating and very helpful for recognising if the thing currently making it's way towards you is harmless, will make you numb for a good long time or is capable of dropping you with a single bite.

So I got to see a Red Back (surprisingly small - and mostly black), some Orbs, a White Tail and a Funnel-Web. There were also lots of huge ants and many, very pretty and harmless, things pinned to crates - or arranged into lovely displays.

The Orbs, by the way, are kept in an open fronted dark room and are fed once a day from below. Apparently they only had an escape twice in the past 10 years. How reassuring.

Best quote:

  "If alone when bitten by one of Australia's highly venomous Funnel-web spiders, first make peace with your God, then go to a hospital"

How reassuring.

Other sections of the museum included the living forest (a forest in the middle of the building but the ceiling is just a net - quite cool as they designed it so you could see under the water) a section on the human body and mind (included Aser's (?) room with a camera on delay so you go out and watch yourself get bigger and smaller) a section on early Australia an other bits and bobs, and a aection on the indeginous people of Melbourne. You could happily spend most of the day there exploring!

That evening D,A &D came into the city and I was taken to my first AFL game (which Ashton Kutcher was also attending). It was Hawks (Hawthorns) v Saints (St Kilda). Dee & A barrack for Hawks and D barracks for Saints, a theme echoed in a lot of the families and groups I saw with no apparent anonimity between either - apart from some good natured ribbing. Loved the game, it ended in a draw and got pretty suspensful with some disallowed goals due to too many people on the pitch, which sounds odd until you understand that the team don't only have the players on the pitch. Just one of the strange but fab things. It took me about 15mins to grasp the rules. If I had to describe it I would say that it cam about due to people wanting to play rugby but not quite remembering the rules - and making some of there own up. My favourite thing was probably the fact that it was the refs who did the throw ins and they have to do it backwards. They are just as fit as the players (and frankly that's a goood enough reason to spend 2 hours watching :)) and need need to be able to hurl that thing a good long way and high.

Amusing biut at the beginning when they have 3 members of the public on to try and kick goals. The competitors...A young boy, a fairly fit and definitley-serious-about-it Aussie, and an English guy called James who had no clue what was going on. I'll leave it up to you to decide who won......

Wednesday 21 July 2010

Exploring the city

Had an hour in school with Dee this morning, good to know that no matter what side of the pond you're on all Primary school classes start with saying good morning, all staff rooms have roughly the same chairs, kids lose their planners and house points are awarded!

Caught the train into the city and stopped into Bunyip tours to see when I could get on the neighbours tour - "tomorrow? Fab!". So I had the rest of the day to mooch.

STopped at the amazingly well stocked, laid out and staffed Federation Square Tourist Information office. Don't be fooled by the empty looking glass room - the stuff is all downstairs - a theme I have found common in Melbourne, perhaps a worrying one! Picked up many leaflets and brochures, then put most back. Having scoured my Lonely Planet, and taken advice form Andrew, Dee and a few others I had a fair idea of what I wanted to do so decided to focus on that.

Decided on a few walking tours, stopping off to places on the way round. There's also a free - that;s right FREE - tourist bus service around the city which includes a brief but informative audio commentary on the way round. Also there's the brown city loop tram which is also FREE. Seriously, if you want a city that's very welcoming AND provides excellently for it's visitors with so many free and QUALITY attractions - this is the place to come!

Headed for Little Italy and Lygon Street first. Finally settled on Pappa Gino's and had a mound of pasta with a glass of vino and a coke for a respectable $20, then, fully stuffed headed over to the Victoria Markets. They were shutting up as I arrived (hopefully get to see it in full swing another day) but I could still see the scale of the thing! Walked back to Flinders Street and along to Fed Sq again to start my walk.

This walk took me South of the river through King's Domain and around the Botanic Gardens (again - all FREE). This included seeing the Melbourne Performing Arts Centre with it's Eiffel Tower-esque spire. Going inside the Shrine of Remembrance and witnessing a re-enactment of the 11/11 ceremony is oddly moving. Every year on remembrance day at 11:11am the sun shines through two tiny holes in the roof and a ray of light moves across the word 'LOVE' on the memorial stone. To demonstrate this on the hour and the half hour all year they play the last post and a small moving light creates the same ray. Having walked through the rest of the building and read the names outside on the memorials it was a somber moment even with only one other person there.
To break out of this reverie if you head out on the balcony you get the most amazing view of the city skyline...did I mention this is free? After this you walk through the Botanic Gardens, which must be packed in their summer time, but were still great to walk round and have lots to offer at this time of year. It was getting dark by the time I was nearing the end and the 'Tan' (Melbourne's answer to Hyde Park's Horse track) was beginning to fill up with runners - really, they do like their running here, I felt a bit guilty strolling along! I also managed to catch sight of a possum in a tree whilst walking back through the park. I was trying to be quiet - until I took a flash photo by mistake and it didn't even flinch!
I went back up to see one of the things I had passed on the way down - the Melbourne Bowl. It's an outdoor Concert venue with a permanent concrete stage and massive awning sheltering hundreds (if not thousands) of fold down chairs, right in the middle of the park. The acoustics and spectacle of seeing the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra play there must be electric. But what I found more striking was - there were no big fences, no really obvious security - and yet, there was no visible vandalism, no hordes of teenagers loafing around with 'nowt to do. It really seemed like something the whole city was proud of and no one wanted to spoil it.

The S.E.S

Today was mostly a planning, sitting in front of the computer, booking and phoning day.

The evening, however, was totally different! Both Andrew and Dee are members of the S.E.S (State Emergency Service) and they took me down to the station to show me around and explain about what they do.

Now, I may get some of the following wrong as it was a lot of info and I was still fairly jet lagged - but I think this is the gist. Depending on which state you are in the Emergency services work differently. In Victoria you have the Police, Ambulance, CFA (County Fire Authority) and the SES. They all work independently of each other. The police deal with the usual things they would in the UK and the Ambulance the same. The difference comes with the SES and the CFA.

Both are services work on a beeper system similar to the lifeboat service in the UK. They are all trained in different areas but with some skills that overlap - causing friction on certain occasions but generally getting the job.

The CFA handle fires (including bush fires) and the SES who deal with Rescues. This mostly means car wrecks but can also rescuing people and animals (Andrew rescued a dog from a septic tank once!) who are stuck/in trouble. They showed me the vehicles they have, the equipment they use (the cutters are powered by hydraulics and are capable are chomping through anything except maybe the axle of a car) and how the organisation works. I got to see photos of training and also some of the incidents they have attended. These have included cars so badly mangled that you couldn't even recognise it was a vehicle and a car that went into a petrol tanker killing the family.

The SES also do community awareness stuff such as free coffee/tea stops and danger awareness for long distant driving, supporting and awareness raising for bush fires and many other things.

And the most amazing thing? It's all voluntary. Every single member of the SES and CFA give up their time to do training (and train to the same standards as paid workers in other countries) and all carry a beeper so that as soon as the call goes out they have to stop and go. The members at Andrew & Dee's included, amongst others priest, a woodworker, a policeman and a student.

An eye opening and humbling experience!

Phillip Island

Wake up - my legs and ankles are back to normal - breathe sigh of relief.

After much faffing by me, Dee and I set off for the day to Phillip Island. The Island is attached to the mainland by a bridge - however it is very much shaped (and named) like the Isle of Wight. A fact obviously not lost on the recent locals as the burned out shell of the 'Isle of Wight' pub attests. It feels like a slightly bohemia/surfer vibe very much focussed on the laid back. They have massive motorbike rave there every year (a bit like the Isle of Man) and that sees the island packed out with people.
 I had my first taste of shark (called 'flake') which was very tasty - almost tangy and better than fish due to the lake of bones! Headed to the wet and windy beach to take in the sea air and a stroll along the short pier, that comes complete with fish measuring plates so that you don't keep fish that are too small.

We went back inland to the animal park we'd passed on the way and spent a fun couple of hours getting acquainted with the residents. You're given a free bag of animal pellets on entry which certainly helps with the wallabies & kangaroos. Saw a Cassowary bird (sort of a cross between an emu and a prehistoric colourful turkey), Koala's (one of which was awake - they spend about 90% of the day asleep Dee says so was cool to see one chomping!), an Echidna, Wombat, Dingo's, several HUGE birds of prey, Emu's. Pelican's, various colourful varieties of bird and some rescued cockatoos. Also saw some Whistling Ducks (so called because they....wait for it.....whistle - I know, weird, but cool to hear!) which probably explains where the infamous wine got it's name.

After that we headed for what is, arguably, Phillip Island's main attraction - Penguin Parade.

Informative visitor centre keeps you busy, fed & watered before heading out of the doors and down the boardwalk to watch the Little Penguins come in from a day's/13 day's swimming and feeding. The little guys and gals surf in in batches of about 10, then to & fro and the beach for a while trying to decided if they got the time right, due to the floodlights on the beach, and the location right, due to the hundreds of large things in funny clothing staring at them. Eventually they seem to think all is good and waddle up the dunes, again in a more than leisurely fashion, to their waiting mates/chicks for a noisy reunion. dee and I decided it was either joy or nagging but whichever it was noisy and a wonderful scene to behold as these little things no higher than your knee waddle up and under the boardwalks. Some of them getting so far that there are warning signs in the car park asking you to check under your car lest some poor hen-pecked penguin has decided to join the ranks of the 19% divorce rate amongst their population, and your car seems preferable to their burrow.

Guilty Pleasures

Spent the morning on another walking tour around Melbourne. Mostly to the West of the CBD and exploring Fitzroy park. Great morning to do it as (for almost the only time that week) the sun came out and I strolled with my Hazelnut Latte through the green, the fairy tree, the model village, the street full of amazing (and occasionally political) grafitti.

Then I headed for my wonderfully cheesey afternoon spent visiting the sights of 'Neighbours'.

It was so much fun and, once I'd let go of the nagging embarrasment (lasted until we got on the bus!), I had a fabulous afternoon :) The guide was named Jerry (an Irish guy who'd been in the country for ages) and he clearly loved what he was doing which was very infectious - even for the Dad in front of me who was there to take the photo's of his wife and daughter who were the fans. The bus only holds around 15 people so the whole thing is quite a personal experiences. We had a family with small children, a few couples, friends and folks just travelling alone - they also came form all over the world - about half from Australia. Apparently the rumour about no Aussies watching it is false then....

We stopped off at the school where they used to film (and have changed location twice since then due to various reasons) then to the backlot of the studio, where we got to run around taking photos of the 'magical' bus stop, Grease Monkeys, Carpenters Mechanics and the new (not even on Australian screens yet) Erinsborough Motors. Alan Fletcher cam out to say "hi" and was very gracious and enthusiastic about seeing us, posed for photos, signed things and was generally a down to earth and top bloke :) After that we were whisked away to th street itself and reminded of some of the strange anomolies that happen there - like the fact that noone ever turns right out of the end of the road (Health & Safety!), and again got to run around taking photos and there were anecdots and explanations of filming aplenty. I would recommend it to anyone who enjoys Neighbours (especially the ones who won't admit it ;)) as a brilliant afternoon.

After the excitement I headed back to Fed. Square and had a mooch round the Moving Images Exhibition. Yet another triumph in design and information - it contained so much and (you guessed it) was free, I could easioly have spent another couple of hours there. It has displays about the development of the moving Images in all areas - film, TV and Computer Games. With some 'Spotlight' sections focussing on Australian individuals, loads of interactive stuff (including old and new games consoles) and looks at the future there was something for everyone and loads for a geek like me - even if seeing an N64 under a perspex cover was a bit disturbing!

Monday 19 July 2010

Outward Flight

So, jet lag is firmly being squashed - although the fact that's it's winter and getting dark at 5pm is NOT helping at all, never mind, it's now 6:20 on Monday and tiredness has not begun so must be getting somewhere!

Just to warn you that I won't be putting any photos up in the posts (as it takes too long) and have decided to use Trip WOW 's amazing slideshow feature to upload some of my favourite doings. There's a small thumbnail of it up at the top of the sidebar and it will open up in it's full glory when clicked.

So the flight....

Arrived at Heathrow after a rather frantic dash out of school and to the train (which included an OCD run back up the stairs to check I'd locked the door and a lovely Moroccan taxi driver checking I'd got my passport and tickets) followed by an almost un-eventful (there was nearly an event when a smell of burning enveloped the train, after 15mins the driver decided to stop and see if it was something serious.....apparently not) couple of train rides.

Spent 3 hours mooching round and then boarded the first flight - destination Hong Kong

SLEPT: 4 Hours
WATCHED: 4 episodes Glee, 4 episodes The Big Bang Theory
ATE: Beef stew w/veg
          Pork Congee (Pork in very watery rice)
SPOKE TO: Great Chinese Guy - Lecturer in Industrial Engineering in Hong Kong, Bristol & London. Flies with Cathay Pacific a lot and gave me tips about getting snacks etc - also about how to get out into HK when at the airport.

When I disembarked I was slightly concerned to see my name on a board at the end of the gangplank under 'Adelaide'. Turns out my next flight was a 2 parter but they were wondering if I would like to leave on an earlier plane that went directly to Melbourne. Great Customer Service but I couldn't see Dee being thrilled by the thought of picking me up at 6:20am so I declined and ventured on.

For the first time ever my lower legs & ankle swelled up (and took 'til waking up at Dee's on Sunday to go down) which was fairly disconcerting but they didn't hurt so felt no reason to worry....much....

Got out into HK via Airpot express and then free bus transfer to a hotel by Harbour. Hot & Humid despite it being 7pm and dark, loads of people around admiring the stunning light show created by the skyscrapers and buildings on the other side of the harbour. Managed to scare some Spanish and Chinese by slipping down some steps whilst trying to get into a photo from my 'gorrila-podded' camera but other than that no major incidents.

Got the ferry across to HK Island. Ferry costs HK$2.50 (25p). In order to have the change I had to buy a smoothie that cost HK$32 (GBP 2.50) - odd? Ferry was a H&S inspector's nightmare/dream come true but got me to other side whilst enabling new views of the harbour.

Got the Airport Express back from HK Island and then onto the next flight.

SLEPT: 3 Hours
WATCHED: 1 episode Big Bang Theory, Meet the Robinsons, Date Night (v.funny) and Invictus (brilliant performances)
ATE: Past w/chilli tomato sauce. Yoghurt, Fruit, Pastries.
SPOKE TO: Lady travelling with her family. They were form Adelaide but had spent 4 years, in the not too distant past, living in Sutton Coldfield.

We all had to disembark at Melbourne. Suffered a major case of de-ja-vu when re-boarding to same seat as the same people were sitting to my right and I'm fairly certain it was exactly the same plane!

D&A picked me up at the airport - very grateful to see them :) It was about 30min drive to their house in Pakenham and got see some of Melbourne's impressive structures (including the 'millenium wheel' that had to shut about 4 days after opening due to a heat wave making the metal buckle!) from the ring road before heading out.

The first thing I noticed was that almost all the houses are 1 storey - giving the impression of a much wider and open space. Also they are built in several specific styles all next to one another, this is not just restricted to the estates either. D & A's is really open plan with 3 bedrooms and 3 sitting areas with a great island in the kitchen area.

They have a black lab named 'Jetta' and a rainbow lorakeet that can whistle & talk called 'bird'.

Dee cooked Kangaroo steaks for tea and while we ate a kookaburra squawked  - couldn't get more idiosyncratic! I also saw my first spider - not sure if it was 'something that could kill me' but Dee was taking no chances and it ended it's life under a shower gel bottle.

I managed to stay awake until about 7:30 when I finally gave in and crawled into bed. Am attempting to conquer jet lag quite quickly by forcing myself to stay awake......

Saturday 17 July 2010

Arrivals..

Just a quick note to say I arrived safe and sound. Met some very helpful people along the way, had an incident with an automatic tap, and observed some very interesting conversations.

Am currently in Melbourne at Dee's house desperately trying to stay awake past 8:30pm so jet lag isn't too much of a problem. Have already tasted Kangaroo and encountered my first spider (genus unknown) so things are looking exciting!

Managed to get out of Hong Kong airport for a quick trip into the city - photos to follow.


More tomorrow!